David S. Shields

Southern food is America’s quintessential cuisine. From creamy grits to simmering pots of beans and greens, we think we know how these classic foods should taste. Yet the southern food we eat today tastes almost nothing like the dishes our ancestors enjoyed, because the varied crops and livestock that originally defined this cuisine have largely disappeared. Now a growing movement of chefs and farmers is seeking to change that by recovering the rich flavor and diversity of southern food. At the center of that movement is historian David S. Shields, who has spent over a decade researching early American agricultural and cooking practices. In Southern Provisions, he reveals how the true ingredients of southern cooking have been all but forgotten and how the lessons of its current restoration and recultivation can be applied to other regional foodways. Shields’s turf is the southern Lowcountry, from the peanut patches of Wilmington, North Carolina to the sugarcane fields of the Georgia Sea Islands and the citrus groves of Amelia Island, Florida. He takes us on a historical excursion to this region, drawing connections among plants, farms, growers, seed brokers, vendors, cooks, and consumers over time. Shields begins by looking at how professional chefs during the nineteenth century set standards of taste that elevated southern cooking to the level of cuisine. He then turns to the role of food markets in creating demand for ingredients and enabling conversation between producers and preparers. Next, his focus shifts to the field, showing how the key ingredients—rice, sugarcane, sorghum, benne, cottonseed, peanuts, and citrus—emerged and went on to play a significant role in commerce and consumption. Shields concludes with a look at the challenges of reclaiming both farming and cooking traditions. From Carolina Gold rice to white flint corn, the ingredients of authentic southern cooking are returning to fields and dinner plates, and with Shields as our guide, we can satisfy our hunger both for the most flavorful regional dishes and their history.

The Creation and Revival of a Cuisine

Southern Provisions

Kevin Mitchell

Ingredient by ingredient, dish by dish, take a tantalizing tour of Georgia's signature foods "Taste the State Georgia and the regional foods within it can be a source of pride for people and communities.... This book will prepare you for your next Georgian culinary adventure and give you a bit of history on why southerners eat what they eat." —Mashama Bailey, chef and owner of The Grey, Savannah From apples to peaches to Vidalia onions, Georgia is home to some of the finest produce grown in the American South. From Brunswick stew to Savannah Red Rice, the state's signature dishes are steeped in history. In Taste the State Georgia, chef Kevin Mitchell and culinary historian David S. Shields reveal the stories and history that have made this rich food culture what it is today. Arguing that Georgia was one of the first states to enthusiastically claim regional cuisine as a marketing tool, Mitchell and Shields explore each of the state's regions, highlighting foods such as Fort Valley Pecans from Central Georgia and Sapelo Island Clams from the Sea Islands. Beyond such staples of the Georgian diet, the authors emphasize more recent culinary creativity, which has produced favorites like the pimento cheeseburger and Vidalia onion cornbread. Sharing stories of heirloom cultivars and innovative kitchens, Taste the State Georgia is a testament to both the enduring memory and future possibilities of Georgian cuisine. Taste the State Georgia includes sixty-five alphabetical entries, with numerous historical recipes, fourteen original recipes by Chef Mitchell, forty-eight color images, and a foreword by celebrated Savannah chef and author Mashama Bailey.

Distinctive Foods and Stories from Where Eating Local Began

Taste the State Georgia

This innovative look at previously neglected poetry in British America represents a major contribution to our understanding of early American culture. Spanning the period from the Glorious Revolution (1690) to the end of King George's War (1750), this study critically reconstitutes the literature of empire in the thirteen colonies, Canada, and the West Indies by investigating over 300 texts in mixed print and manuscript sources, including poems in pamphlets and newspapers. British America's poetry of empire was dominated by three issues: mercantilism's promise that civilization and wealth would be transmitted from London to the provinces; the debate over the extent of metropolitan prerogatives in law and commerce when they obtruded upon provincial rights and interests; and the argument that Britain's imperium pelagi was an ethical empire, because it depended upon the morality of trade, while the empires of Spain and France were immoral empires because they were grounded upon conquest. In discussing these issues, Shields provides a virtual anthology of poems long lost to students of American literature.

Poetry, Politics, and Commerce in British America, 1690-1750

Oracles of Empire

American silent motion picture photography

Still

In cities from Boston to Charleston, elite men and women of eighteenth-century British America came together in private venues to script a polite culture. By examining their various 'texts'?conversations, letters, newspapers, and privately circulated manuscripts?David Shields reconstructs the discourse of civility that flourished in and further shaped elite society in British America.

Civil Tongues and Polite Letters in British America

He presided over Virginia’s great political barbeques for the last half of the nineteenth century, taught the young Prince of Wales to crave mint juleps in 1859, catered to Virginia’s mountain spas, and fed two generations of Richmond epicures with terrapin and turkey. This fascinating culinarian is John Dabney (1821–1900), who was born a slave, but later built an enterprising catering business. Dabney is just one of 175 influential cooks and restaurateurs profiled by David S. Shields in The Culinarians, a beautifully produced encyclopedic history of the rise of professional cooking in America from the early republic to Prohibition. Shields’s concise biographies include the legendary Julien, founder in 1793 of America’s first restaurant, Boston’s Restorator; and Louis Diat and Oscar of the Waldorf, the men most responsible for keeping the ideal of fine dining alive between the World Wars. Though many of the gastronomic pioneers gathered here are less well known, their diverse influence on American dining should not be overlooked—plus, their stories are truly entertaining. We meet an African American oyster dealer who became the Congressional caterer, and, thus, a powerful broker of political patronage; a French chef who was a culinary savant of vegetables and drove the rise of California cuisine in the 1870s; and a rotund Philadelphia confectioner who prevailed in a culinary contest with a rival in New York by staging what many believed to be the greatest American meal of the nineteenth century. He later grew wealthy selling ice cream to the masses. Shields also introduces us to a French chef who brought haute cuisine to wealthy prospectors and a black restaurateur who hosted a reconciliation dinner for black and white citizens at the close of the Civil War in Charleston. Altogether, Culinarians is a delightful compendium of charcuterie-makers, pastry-pipers, caterers, railroad chefs, and cooking school matrons—not to mention drunks, temperance converts, and gangsters—who all had a hand in creating the first age of American fine dining and its legacy of conviviality and innovation that continues today.

Lives and Careers from the First Age of American Fine Dining

The Culinarians

From the influence of 1920s fashion on asparagus growers to an heirloom watermelon lost and found, Taste the State abounds with surprising stories from South Carolina's singularly rich food tradition. Here, Kevin Mitchell and David S. Shields present engaging profiles of eighty-two of the state's most distinctive ingredients, such as Carolina Gold rice, Sea Island White Flint corn, and the cone-shaped Charleston Wakefield cabbage, and signature dishes, such as shrimp and grits, chicken bog, okra soup, Frogmore stew, and crab rice. These portraits, illustrated with original photographs and historical drawings, provide origin stories and tales of kitchen creativity and agricultural innovation; historical receipts and modern recipes, including Chef Mitchell's distillation of traditions in Hoppin' John fritters, okra and crab stew, and more. Because Carolina cookery combines ingredients and cooking techniques of three greatly divergent cultural traditions, there is more than a little novelty and variety in the food. In Taste the State Mitchell and Shields celebrate the contributions of Native Americans (hominy grits, squashes, and beans), the Gullah Geechee (field peas, okra, guinea squash, rice, and sorghum), and European settlers (garden vegetables, grains, pigs, and cattle) in the mixture of ingredients and techniques that would become Carolina cooking. They also explore the specialties of every region--the famous rice and seafood dishes of the lowcountry; the Pee Dee's catfish and pinebark stews; the smothered cabbage, pumpkin chips, and mustard-based barbecue of the Dutch Fork and Orangeburg; the red chicken stew of the midlands; and the chestnuts, chinquapins, and corn bread recipes of mountain upstate. Taste the State presents the cultural histories of native ingredients and showcases the evolution of the dishes and the variety of preparations that have emerged. Here you will find true Carolina cooking in all of its cultural depth, historical vividness, and sumptuous splendor--from the plain home cooking of sweet potato pone to Lady Baltimore cake worthy of a Charleston society banquet.

Taste the State: South Carolina's Signature Foods, Recipes, and Their Stories

The success of movies like The Artist and Hugo recreated the wonder and magic of silent film for modern audiences, many of whom might never have experienced a movie without sound. But while the American silent movie was one of the most significant popular art forms of the modern age, it is also one that is largely lost to us, as more than eighty percent of silent films have disappeared, the victims of age, disaster, and neglect. We now know about many of these cinematic masterpieces only from the collections of still portraits and production photographs that were originally created for publicity and reference. Capturing the beauty, horror, and moodiness of silent motion pictures, these images are remarkable pieces of art in their own right. In the first history of still camera work generated by the American silent motion picture industry, David S. Shields chronicles the evolution of silent film aesthetics, glamour, and publicity, and provides unparalleled insight into this influential body of popular imagery. Exploring the work of over sixty camera artists, Still recovers the stories of the photographers who descended on early Hollywood and the stars and starlets who sat for them between 1908 and 1928. Focusing on the most culturally influential types of photographs—the performer portrait and the scene still—Shields follows photographers such as Albert Witzel and W. F. Seely as they devised the poses that newspapers and magazines would bring to Americans, who mimicked the sultry stares and dangerous glances of silent stars. He uncovers scene shots of unprecedented splendor—visions that would ignite the popular imagination. And he details how still photographs changed the film industry, whose growing preoccupation with artistry in imagery caused directors and stars to hire celebrated stage photographers and transformed cameramen into bankable names. Reproducing over one hundred and fifty of these gorgeous black-and-white photographs, Still brings to life an entire long-lost visual culture that a century later still has the power to enchant.

American Silent Motion Picture Photography

From grits to deep-fried okra, from barbecue to corn bread, Southern food stirs greater loyalty and passion than any American cuisine. Yet as the crops that once defined it have disappeared, much of the flavor has leeched out of Southern cookery until today. Thanks to a community of devoted chefs and farmers, and one indefatigable historian, Southern heirloom greens and grains and with them America s greatest cuisine--are being revived. Searching the archives for evidence of how nineteenth-century farmers bred their enormous variety of vegetables and grains, and of their contemporaries tastes and cooking practices, David S. Shields has become a key figure in the effort to reboot Southern cuisine. "Southern Provisions" draws on ten years of research and activism to tell the story of a quintessentially American cuisine that was all but forgotten, and the lessons that its restoration holds for the revival of regional cuisines across the country. Shields vividly evokes the connections between plants, plantations, growers, seed brokers, markets, vendors, cooks, and consumers. He shows how the distinctiveness of local ingredients arose from historical circumstances and a confluence of English, French Huguenot, West African, and Native American foodways. Shields emphasizes the Southern Lowcountry, from the peanut patches of Wilmington, North Carolina; to the Truck Farms of the Charleston Neck, South Carolina; to the sugar cane fields of the Georgia Sea Islands; to the citrus groves of Amelia Island, Florida. But the book also takes up the cuisine of New Orleans and other areas of the South and the nation, and even the West Indies. Offering a fascinating panorama of America s culinary past, "Southern Provisions" also shows how the renovation of traditional southern ingredients will enable cooks to take regional cuisine into the future."

David S. Shields

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