Drew Kampion

Once the sport of Polynesian kings, surfing embodies the ultimate encounter between man and nature. Played out on the beaches and breaking waves of the world's continental fringes, surfing is the epitome of a classic cult of freedom and individual expression-an arena not only for survival but for grace under pressure, style, and artistic invention. Yet surfing is more than just riding the waves-it's a lifestyle, a state of mind, a subculture with its own codes and heroes. In Stoked: A History of Surf Culture, surf journalist Drew Kampion traces the evolution of the modern beach culture and the challenging, beautiful sport that gave rise to it. From its Polynesian origins and the early days of Duke Kahanamoku's beachboys, to the California-style surfing cult that exploded in the 1960s, to the international pro circuits and radical big-wave contests of today, Stoked tells the compelling story that has inspired entire genres of music, movies, fashion, and art. This revised second edition has updated text and new photographs. With a foreword by legendary surf filmmaker Bruce Brown, whose seminal film, The Endless Summer, captured the essence of the surfing lifestyle, Stoked is the lavishly illustrated history of the legends and the places, the artifacts and the trends, that continue to give surf culture its universal allure and appeal.

A History of Surf Culture

Stoked!

No one has done more to expand the world of surfing than Jack O Neill. In the middle of the twentieth century, surfing was overwhelmingly confined to warm-water latitudes and summer seasons. By the end of the century, surfers were riding waves in some of the most remote coldwater corners of the world places like Scotland, Tasmania, and Canada in the dead of winter. Jack O Neill made it all possible with his invention of the wet suit. This is his story, lushly illustrated with archival photos and classic surfing images and brought vividly to life through quotes from some of the most famous surfers of the past 50 years.

Jack O'Neill: It's Always Summer On the Inside

It's Always Summer on the Inside

Jack O'Neill

As energy passing through matter organizes matter, so years of intimacy with the ocean and its waves organizes and alters the perceptions of the surfer. The lulls, sets, and rogue waves; the briny stew in which they tumble and struggle; the continual oscillations of reflective surfaces under shifting skies; the lurking presence of "The Landlord" -- all of this alters the senses while it educates the surfer, revealing the laws of the universe on a scale that can be engaged and understood. This collection of stories will pull you into the world of the surfer -- capturing your emotion and engaging your mind. As varied as the patterns of waves, these stories reveal the joy, fear, longing, and ever-present questions of human emotion and existence. Book jacket.

Stories from the Surf

The Lost Coast

Eric McLuhan

David Carson

Jamie Brisick

David Carson, Recent Werk

Trek

Trek is David Carsons first graphic design book in 5 years. It is the most comprehensive collection of his work since The End of Print published in the mid 90s and documents his travels to address young people in lectures and workshops around the world. Due to the huge success of his first book and the magazines he has directed hehas become the most sought after speaker in the field. His graphic talent evolves permanently and in his other vocation,teaching, his skill is legend. Carson has inspired an entire gen eration of design and art school students across the globe. Trek features excerpts from the highly successful Marshall McLuhan Project, plus work created for high-profile clients such as Nine Inch Nails and Quicksilver. David is based in South Carolina and Malibu. He works as author, music video and commercial director, advertising and magazine designer, consultant, lecturer and teacher.

David Carson, Recent Work

Jeff Peterson

The Lost Coast: Stories From The Surf is a collection of twenty-two stories that offer a rare and raw glimpse into surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene at 4 a.m. to experiencing the ecstasy of a curling, cresting wall of water. With pacing that ranges from swift smooth paddle to a gnarly ride, these stories-most of which have been published over the past thirty years-capture the spirit that gave rise to culture of surf on the "sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty." "Drew Kampion is the only American surf writer who kept my interest during the period when I was World Champion-what everyone else was saying made me just want to look at the pictures, Drew's writing has always been an excellent barometer on the state of our tribe."

Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school. Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.

The Lost Coast Pb

Presents the history of surfing as a sport, profiles important surfers, and includes images of surfing locations worldwide.

Living It, 1935 to Tomorrow

The Way of the Surfer

Provides a biographical profile of legendary surfer Greg Noll and his award-winning designs for innovative and unusual surfboards, accompanied by a concise history of the evolution of surfboards and construction techniques, from ancient Hawaii to the present day, a gallery of Greg Noll surfboards, and step-by-step photo sequences of the construction process.

Drew Kampion

Books

Your next favorite book is out there