Andrew Bolton

Amanda Garfinkel

Fabio Cleto

Karen Van Godtsenhoven

"Indeed, the essence of Camp is its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration." —Susan Sontag, 1964 Although an elusive concept, "camp" can be found in most forms of artistic expression, revealing itself to be a complex aesthetic that challenges the status quo. As an expression of the playful dynamics between high art and popular culture, fashion both embraces and flaunts such camp modes as irony, humor, parody, pastiche, artifice, theatricality, and exaggeration. Drawing from Susan Sontag’s seminal 1964 essay "Notes on 'Camp'," this multifaceted publication presents the sartorial manifestations of the camp sensibility while contributing new theoretical and conceptual insights to the camp canon through texts and images. Stunning new photography by Johnny Dufort highlights works by exceptional fashion designers including Thom Browne, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Alessandro Michele, Franco Moschino, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeremy Scott, Anna Sui, Gianni Versace, and Vivienne Westwood.

Notes on Fashion

Camp

Mellissa Huber

This beautifully illustrated book explores the considerable impact of fashions created by and for women by tracing a historical and conceptual lineage of female designers—from unidentified dressmakers in eighteenth-century France to contemporary makers who are leading the direction of fashion today. Stunning new photographs of exceptional garments from the unparalleled collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute complement insightful essays that consider notions of anonymity, visibility, agency, and absence/omission, highlighting celebrated designers and forgotten histories alike to reveal women’s impact on the field of fashion. The publication includes garments from French houses such as Vionnet, Schiaparelli, and Mad Carpentier to American makers like Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, and Isabel Toledo, along with contemporary designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Iris van Herpen, Simone Rocha, and Anifa Mvuemba. Situating the works within a larger social context, this overdue look at female-led design is essential reading for anyone interested in the history of fashion.

A Lineage of Female Fashion Design

Women Dressing Women

Clare Davies

Perrin Stein

Sheena Wagstaff

Jeff L. Rosenheim

Wolfram Koeppe

Elizabeth Mankin Kornhauser

Mia Fineman

Jessica Regan

Alisa LaGamma

John T. Carpenter

Donald J. La Rocca

Iria Candela

Maryam Ekhtiar

Stuart W. Pyhrr

Monika Bincsik

Stephanie D'Alessandro

Henry Colburn

Deniz Beyazit

Jayson Kerr Dobney

Ian Alteveer

Sylvia Yount

Kelly Baum

Medill Higgins Harvey

John Byck

Yaëlle Biro

Maia Nuku

Femke Speelberg

Brinda Kumar

Kim Benzel

Ashley Dunn

Douglas S. Eklund

Alyce Perry Englund

Jennifer Farrell

Amanda B. Garfinkel

Alison Hokanson

Mellissa J. Huber

Shanay Jhaveri

Ronda Kasl

Constance McPhee

Asher E. Miller

Elyse Nelson

Stephen C. Pinson

Adrienne Spinozzi

Courtney A. Stewart

E. Bradley Strauchen-Scherer

The second volume in a special two-part edition of Recent Acquisitions, this Bulletin celebrates works acquired by the Museum in 2019 and 2020, many of which were gifts bestowed in honor of the Museum’s 150th anniversary year. Highlights of this volume include Jean-Baptise Carpeaux’s astonishing portrayal of an African woman in the marble sculpture Why Born Enslaved!, a monumental storage jar by African American potter and poet David Drake, an exquisite lacquer mirror case depicting an 1838 meeting between the crown prince of Iran and the tsar of Russia, and Carmen Herrera’s abstract work dating to 1949, Iberic. This publication also honors the many generous contributions from donors that make possible the continued growth of The Met's collection.

Recent Acquisitions: A Selection: 2018–20: Part II: Late Eighteenth Century to Contemporary

Miren Arzalluz

Kaat Debo

Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present. Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century. With over 200 images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion.

Reinventing the 20th-Century Silhouette

Fashion Game Changers

Vanessa Friedman

Lydia Kamitsis

Dan Thawley

Olivier Theyskens

Van de donkere romantische kant van zijn vroege collecties die hem internationale faam opleverden, tot de nieuwe visie op couture die hij bij Rochas uittekende. Zijn meesterschap van patroon en textielbewerking bij Nina Ricci, zijn Amerikaanse avontuur bij Theyskens' Theory en de heropstart van zijn eigen label, Olivier Theyskens. Telkens verraden de silhouetten de hand van de meester. Zijn uitstekende talent voor tekenen en zijn autodidactische manier van werken geven een scherp inzicht in de verschillende aspecten van de hedendaagse modewereld: van couture tot semi-couture en prêt-à-porter collecties. De Theyskens vrouw verandert door de tijd: ze is romantisch, mysterieus, sterk en elegant, zowel oud als jong, maar ze gaat in schoonheid waar ze ook gaat.

She walks in beauty

Karen Van Godtsenhoven

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