Hedonistic resorts are counterbalanced here by Greek and Roman excavations. Tour Pompeii and Herculaneum, an amphitheater or a submerged city. Visit hissing beaches and bubbling spas on Ischia. Take in the gastronomic specialties of gourmet pizza, handmade pasta and fresh seafood. Here is a guide to it all, from art and vineyards to fashions and antiques. Cooking and language classes are featured. Index, photos, town and regional maps.