Martin Harrison

Catherine Chermayeff

Lillian Bassman

This monograph of Bassman's legendary work - the first ever published - presents the romantic, experimental visions, seen mostly in Harper's Bazaar, that brought a sophisticated new aesthetic to print photography. Yet the story of Bassman's life and newfound celebrity at age eight and the extraordinary tale of how her work survived are as remarkable as the images themselves. From the 1940s to the 1960s Bassman was at fashion's cutting edge, working as both art director and photographer. At Junior Bazaar she worked with young photographers like Richard Avedon, Robert Frank, Louis Faurer, Arnold Newman and Paul Himmel. Then, under Russian emigre and Modernist guru Alexey Brodovitch (and while using George Hoyningen-Huene's darkroom), Bassman started to shoot pictures herself - diffuse, moody images with an idiosyncratic vocabulary of gestures, and an unsettling edge. Bassman soon was in constant demand and, in addition to her editorial work, shot advertising campaigns for clients like Chanel and Balenciaga. By the 1970s, Bassman's interest in pure form began to clash with fashion's changing aesthetic. Her increasing disenchantment with fashion as an industry led her to abandon commercial photography for personal projects instead. In a bold attempt to free herself creatively from the past, she jettisoned forty years of negatives and prints - her life's work. Over twenty years later, luck resurrected a forgotten bag, brimful of hundreds of images. Now, Bassman is enjoying a resurgence at fashion's forefront, with exhibitions at museums and art galleries in New York, Paris, London, and Milan, several portfolios in the New York Times Magazine, the coveted Neiman Marcus campaign, and an upcoming 1997 retrospective exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, that plans to travel to Germany and Milan. This long-awaited monograph, presenting both past and recent work, is not only a tribute to a great talent in the annals of fashion and photography but also the story of an indomitable creative personality.

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